Opinion | The Changthangi goat and its pashmina wool

The Valley of Kashmir is a place full of wonders. From the beautiful valleys to the great snow clad mountain tops, there are places that never cease to amaze an individual. It’s not just the mesmerizing scenic beauty that the place is known for but also for producing one of the finest clothing in the world. In this cold Himalayan region, lives an exotic species of high-altitude goat that is specific to this region known as Changthangi.

The rare species of Changthangi goats have adapted to the harsh conditions of Changthang region. These goats are part of a herder tribe known as Changpa. This particular goat produces a soft and fine fiber over its body called Cashmere wool, which is the raw ingredient in hand after undergoing a series of processes, subsequently synthesized into the fabric that today’s world knows by the name Pashmina. This particular quality of wool is considered the world’s finest fabric and is highly priced for its quality.

In Ladakh where the Changthangi breed, temperatures can touch -40 degrees. But loving Mother nature endowed the Changthangi goat with fine Cashmere wool which grows over its underbelly neck and some sensitive areas of its body. The wool is delicate and fine just upto 12-16 microns, so it doesn’t slow down the goat. But it is exceptionally warm enough to insulate its bulky body.

The word Pashmina originated from Persian, in which the word ‘Pashm’ means ‘soft gold’. This fiber is so fine that it is ¼ the size of a human hair and holds a Guinness Book of world record of being the “Costliest fiber in the world” , following the ban imposed on the Shahtoosh – A fiber produced by the Tibetan Antelope. It is a clothing that is well known for its warmth, light weight and softness along with a dye absorbing property that is a blessing for the manufacturer. A single goat produces about 150 grams of Pashmina per year. To make a shawl of measurement 200×100 cm on an average 3-4 goats are needed, adding to the reason of the wool’s exorbitant cost.

Though the raw wool is acquired from Ladakh, the expert handiwork has been done in Kashmir for centuries. Once the molting period starts the wool is combed off the goats and sent to Kashmir for processing. The wool is cleaned and spun over a wooden spinning wheel called ‘Yinder’. This technique is unique and indigenous to the Valley. It takes a lot of effort and concentration to produce a fine yarn of 12 – 16 microns by hand. Thereafter the yarn enters wooden handloom factories which are traditional to Kashmir, where it takes 3-4 days to produce a shawl. The Shawl is then customized as per the customer’s choice, the most popular one being – Embroidered ones.

Hand embroidering each shawl might take up several years depending upon the design. Sozni embroidery and Paper Mache embroideries are done on Pashmina using fine threads and needles to cover the base in intricate designs. Tilla Dozi on the other hands uses metallic threads dipped in gold and silver to cover the base in shimmery classic motifs
Other than embroidery, a shawl can be patterned, printed, ombre dyed, or woven in Kani style. Being feathery light and unusually warm, the shawl looks as beautiful as it is comfortable. Not only shawls but huge demand from all over the world has led to Cashmere wool being transformed into scarves, stoles, hijabs, handkerchiefs, sweaters, robes, and many more apparel and accessories.

Today there are a number of companies just for clothing. But the Pashmina is of a different league. Firstly, the wool is acquired without machines and in ethical ways without harming the animal. Secondly, the wool is eco-friendly, developed without any harm to the environment. And lastly, the quality is so pure that it last for decades. Yet its grace never loses its touch with time. In fact, it looks more traditional and exquisite. It is a tradition that is still followed in many households in Kashmir. The credit goes to Changthangi goats and the years of experience passed on from generation to generation in the valley that this beautiful handwork is still alive and throbbing.

For visitors in Kashmir’s bustling capital city Srinagar, some of the most recommended places to buy Pashmina are in the markets of Lal Chowk, Eidgah and Nawa Kadal. The local vendors are always more budget friendly and readily willing to customize, as compared to Government Emporiums.