Opinion | Chillai-Kalan

The great winter that shaped Kashmir’s Lifestyle and Culture

Chillai-Kalan is the coldest and harshest part of winter in Kashmir. It begins on 21 December and lasts for 40 days. The word comes from Persian, where Chilla means forty and Kalan means major, highlighting the forty toughest days of winter. Starting with the winter solstice, this period marks the peak of bone-chilling winter, during which the valley is clad in a sheet of snow, strong icy winds blow over it, and temperatures nose-dive to way below freezing point.

During Chillai-Kalan, life becomes hard. Rivers and lakes freeze, water pipes often ice over, and snow makes roads slippery and difficult to travel. Despite all these hardships, the snow is very beneficial for the environment. It melts slowly and fills rivers, streams, and reservoirs that provide water throughout the year. People keep themselves warm with a (pheran) long woollen gown and (kangri) an earthen pot in which burning charcoal is kept. Houses are kept warm, and sufficient food, firewood, and other essentials are stored with families to last the long winter.

In earlier times, villagers depended on handmade items and other local crafts to cope with the cold. (Pulhore) shoes made of paddy straw, which would not allow slipping on the frozen snow. Grass ropes were used for tying the animals, storing fodder, and facilitating farming work. Skilled crafts, such as khraaw (mats prepared from wood and dried grass), wagoo, and patij, were skillfully done. These traditional items reflect the creativity, craftsmanship, and knowledge about nature. Each item had its purpose and reflected the resourcefulness of Kashmiri villagers.

People in the villages were skilled in making day-to-day items with grasses, hay, and hedges. They made ropes of all sizes, grass shoes for summer and winter use, and crafted necessary farm and home tools. Each item was made with skill and care, reflecting how people lived in close harmony with nature and relied on its resources to meet their daily needs.

Long winter nights were spent indoors with the family. Children would gather around elders to hear stories of local heroes, legends, and family tales. These stories were a source of entertainment and also taught important lessons about values, culture, and history. Meanwhile, adults spent time doing indoor crafts like carpet weaving, mat making, and other forms of handicrafts, making long winter days well utilized and purposeful in many ways.

Preparing for Chillai-Kalan was an integral part of life. Many families would stock up sufficient woollens, pherans, and charcoal for kangris much in advance of the winter season. The old Kashmiri calendar had twelve months: Tsithur, Vahekh, Zeth, Har, Shravun, Badrupeth, Ashid, Kartikh, Monjhor, Poh, Maag, and Phagun. Poh was literally the period when the most severe cold used to start in Kashmir. People planned for food, fuel, and clothing. Such timely and cautious preparation at the right time helped communities endure and successfully cope with such a long, severe winter.

Food formed an integral part of winter life. Special winter dishes were prepared to keep warm and strong during the winter months. Some traditional foods are harisa, nadir gade (fish with lotus stem), razmahgogji (kidney beans with turnip), ho-gade, and ale (Hachi), all non-vegetarian dishes made from fish or dried fish and bottle gourd preserved for such times of the year. These were nourishing dishes, but at the same time ways to celebrate the season and preserve the traditional art of cooking.

Traditionally, pherans and kangris were used for hundreds of years. Nowadays, the frequent use of appliances like blowers and heaters has reduced their practical importance. Today, the pheran has largely become a fashion garment, worn more for appearance than for warmth. This change reflects the evolution that modern life has brought among Kashmiris in experiencing winter, shifting away from traditional practices to appreciation as a cultural symbol.

I have always been mesmerized whenever elderly people talk about winters of the past. Life, though harsh because of the extreme cold, was nevertheless full of warmth and joy. Evenings were spent sitting around in families, sharing dinner, stories and laughter while guests were warmly welcomed. Neighbours, too, would visit one another. And life was so simple with a lot of care and kindness around each other.

This is very much captured in the spirit of this old Kashmiri saying: “Wande tchali sheen gali beyi yiyi bahaar”, which means “Even after the longest winter, spring will surely come.” The saying is found in books today and reminds people of hope, patience, and the promise of better days, even when life has been feeling harsh or hard.

After the Chillai-Kalan, Kashmir enters into Chillai Khurd, the second phase of winter, lasting 20 days from January 30 to February 18. The cold is still there but not as intense; snowfall decreases, and temperatures rise slightly. For the villagers, this is the first relief following the intense Chillai-Kalan.

This period is followed by Chillai Bachha, the final phase of 10 days, from February 19 to February 28, which is commonly known as “baby cold.” Winter slowly and gradually loses its hold, days grow longer, snow melts in lower areas, and people start preparing for spring and agricultural work. Together, these three phases, Chillai-Kalan, Chillai Khurd, and Chillai Bachha, from the traditional winter cycle of Kashmir, guide the lives of people from one generation to the next.

Chillai-Kalan was the time of cold weather, but it was also a time of culture, family, and community. It shaped the rhythm of life, strengthening families, preserving traditional crafts, and teaching people resilience and patience. Remembering these traditions today helps us connect to our roots, appreciate the wisdom of our ancestors, and understand the balance between nature, skill, and simple joys that defined life during the Great Winter.

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