Opinion | Sonmarg: Meadow of Gold

The real gold of Sonmarg does not lie in its mountains or glaciers but in the people and their untold stories. Three different worlds of tourists, villagers, and nomadic tribes walking the same land, drinking the same water, and breathing the same air are seen together in sonmarg.

Sonmarg is the meadow where many worlds meet. A unique human story of a land that is more than a tourist place. People call it the Meadow of Gold, but the truth is that this gold does not only lie in its mountains, flowers, flowing rivers, or white glaciers. Its real gold lies in the people living there and their untold stories, its ancient paths, and the lives that are breathing in its cold winds.

Every summer, when the white sheet of nature starts melting and the new fresh valley lying beneath opens its arms, three worlds emerge underneath. The first one is the soul of Kashmir — the tourists — who come wandering to seek peace from their tired life. The second are the local villagers who have been hibernating under the snow, begin to awaken, and start searching for work. And the last world which we see is the nomadic tribe, looking for the fresh and lovely pastures for their animals and for their livelihood. These worlds are very different from one another, but they walk on the same land, drink the same water, and breathe the same air.

Tourists who come in search of peace finally find peace in staying in hotels, tents, pony rides to Thajiwas Glacier, and cafés. But this peace is the economy of the local people of Sonmarg. When the Gujjar and Bakerwal families enter the Sonmarg land with their sheep and goats, the hotels buy fresh milk, butter, and ghee from them, which brings life to the silent upper meadows. And this movement of nomadic people is years old — older than tourism or the name Sonmarg itself. For local families, this meadow is not a weekend escape; it is their lifeline. The local pony man, the tea shop owners, the young boy selling souvenirs and embroidery earn and save money in these few months.

But as November arrives and snow starts to fall, all this radiance begins to disappear slowly. Sonmarg becomes silent and begins to blink slowly and finally goes into a deep sleep under the white sheet of snow till March. But in recent years, this winter season in Sonmarg is slowly growing. The government organises winter sports events like skiing competitions, snow festivals, and New Year’s Eve gatherings, which now make Sonmarg a year-round destination for tourists.

The companion of Sonmarg — the Sindh River — is not only a river; it is a lifeline for Sonmarg and the local people. This river runs through the valley and the alpine meadows, offering trout fishing and rafting among the mountains. The mountains of Sonmarg attract tourists for trekking. Sonmarg is the pathway for the famous Kashmir Great Lakes trek, and hikes lead to high-altitude alpine lakes — Vishansar, Krishansar, Gangabal, and Gadsar. In winters, the local people collect alpine flowers for wedding decorations and for herbal medicine. Besides this, other adventure activities like rock climbing, mountain biking, and camping are also seen. Recently, the government has installed ski drag lifts for tourists, boosting tourism in Sonmarg.

About 15 km to the east lies Baltal valley (Meadow of Flowers) at the foot of Zojila Pass, which serves as a base camp for the Amarnath Yatris. According to reports, Sonmarg alone contributes 7% of Jammu and Kashmir’s GDP. Sonmarg supports, directly or indirectly, about 70,000 local people’s jobs. Before tourism, Sonmarg villages had their own rich culture. They used to make handmade woollen ropes, traditional pherans dyed with natural colours, and handmade cheese (kalari) dried in the sun.

But every coin has a second side. Though Sonmarg is the Meadow of Gold, this gold is losing its shine slowly. The environment is slowly turning wild. Glaciers are melting due to heat and over-tourism. Pony waste, plastic, and uncontrollable construction are polluting the Sindh River. Many children are skipping school during summer to earn money, and seasonal schooling still remains a major challenge. Tourists come to find peace, but locals are leaving this place to find stability.

Earlier, Sonmarg’s traditional culture used to be strong, but now this traditional culture is slowly disappearing and losing its identity. New roads, tunnels, and hotels are growing but simultaneously bringing pressure. Visitors come and go, but it is locals who are facing the consequences. We should remember that Sonmarg is beautiful, but beauty does not pay bills.

Email : hajrabano1910@ gmail.com