Opinion | Women Preserving and Transforming Kashmiri Art and Craft

From Heritage to Modern Expression the Role of Women in Tilla Embroidery

Kashmir has a rich cultural and artistic heritage that extends far beyond its beautiful handmade products. The art of Kashmir is an expression of the lifestyle, emotions, and traditions of its people. Every piece of handmade art tells a story of the region of Jammu and Kashmir, shaped by history, geography, and social life. The crafts of Kashmir are deeply linked to social relations and identity.

Traditional Kashmiri art forms carry histories that have been passed down from generation to generation. Skills are transmitted within the families, where mothers teach daughters, aunts guide nieces, and grandmothers teach younger generations. This way, the skill is a family tradition that brings families closer together. In the case of the people of Kashmir, craftsmanship is more than a mode of production, it is deeply ingrained in cultural memory.

Among the various traditional crafts practised in the area, Tilla Embroidery holds a special and honoured position. This centuries-old hand embroidery technique uses gold or silver-coloured threads to create beautiful works of art from plain fabric materials. It highlights the exceptional skills of Kashmiri artisans, who transform simple materials into art itself. Traditionally, Tilla embroidery is done on fabrics like velvet, silk, wool, and cotton. Over time, the craft has been closely connected with celebrations, prestige, and elegance. It has been extensively used in wedding dresses, pherans, shawls, and traditional caps. For many years, dresses adorned with this embroidery have represented elegance and prosperity. The essence of this tradition is the Kashmiri woman, who has maintained this art form for many centuries. Women have traditionally been its primary practitioners and custodians.

The Learning process traditionally took place within the home from their mothers, grandmothers, or other elder female relatives. There were no formal schools or training centres dedicated to this craft. Learning took place through observation, imitation, and constant practice. Skilled women demonstrated techniques, while young ones repeated the steps until mastery was achieved. Despite the drawbacks of trial and error in learning, women remained patient and dedicated. For many women in Kashmir, Tilla embroidery is still a regular activity and a means of earning a living. It allows them to earn money while household responsibilities. In regions where there are limited employment opportunities, especially in rural areas, this embroidery is a source of income and economic support. Women who earn a living through this craft are often respected by their communities and may feel a sense of freedom.

In recent years, however, this craft has been facing many challenges. The rise of machine-made embroidery and shifting market preferences has reduced demand for handmade products, which are more time-consuming and expensive. Many artisans are finding it difficult to compete with machine-made embroidery. However, Kashmiri women artisans have shown resilience and creativity in this situation. To keep it relevant, women have started re-inventing traditional designs to suit modern taste. Earlier designs were elaborate and heavier, but the present designs are simpler and more versatile.

Today, Tilla embroidery can be seen on a wide range of items, from Kurtis to long coats, scarves, stoles, and modern shawls. Artisans are also applying this work to accessories and home decor items, expanding its use beyond traditional clothing. This craft is being increasingly used in cushion covers, table runners, wall hangings, bed covers, and decorative panels. These are always in great demand and are used in homes, hotels, and boutiques. The use of gold and silver threads adds elegance and luxury to interior design, making Tilla embroidery suitable for both traditional and modern architecture.

Digital platforms have played a significant role in reviving and promoting this traditional art. Kashmiri Women now showcase their work through digital platforms such as social media and virtual exhibitions. These platforms allow them to reach customers beyond the region, even internationally. These platforms have enabled women to sell their own products and to decide for themselves the salaries they earn. Additionally, self-help groups and women’s cooperatives are yet another factor contributing to the advancement and strengthening of this craft. Through collaboration and joint efforts, women artisans have access to resources, materials, skills, and access to exhibitions and fairs. These groups also act as a source of emotional and financial support, which helps women gain confidence and leadership qualities. Women who join these groups often become leaders in their communities and role models for others.

Apart from the economic advantages, Tilla embroidery holds deep social and emotional value for women. It provides a platform for women to express their creativity, allows them to make new friends, and gives them a sense of belonging. Acknowledgement of their work boosts their esteem and pride in their roots. Thus, Tilla embroidery symbolizes cultural heritage and a tool for change in society. Kashmiri women have remained committed to the preservation of this art form while adjusting it to meet the demands of modern society. It is through their determination, creativity, and collective efforts that the craft continues to flourish and be an important symbol of the preservation of Kashmiri art by women.

rakshandagul629@gmail.com