Opinion | A Family Journey from Baramulla to Kargil

An unforgettable family expedition through the majestic Himalayas where every bend revealed a new story and every stop became a cherished memory

There are some journeys that begin the moment you turn the key in your vehicle, and there are others that begin much earlier in the heart. Our family trip from Baramulla to Kargil was one such journey. It was not only about covering hundreds of kilometers. It was about discovering landscapes that seemed painted by nature, reliving history, sharing simple meals under the open sky, and creating memories that will remain with us forever.

On the morning of 15 July, we started our journey from our home in Baramulla at around 7 am. The air carried the freshness that only Kashmir can offer, and the roads were quiet. Everyone in the family was filled with excitement. The vehicle was packed not only with luggage, snacks, and water bottles, but also with cooking essentials, a small gas stove, utensils, tea leaves, and Maggi packets. The children were eager to see mountains they had only heard about, while the elders looked forward to revisiting one of the most beautiful landscapes of the country.

Leaving Baramulla behind, we travelled through Naidkhai and Sumbal before moving towards Ganderbal. This stretch, nearly forty to fifty kilometers, was peaceful, with green fields, quiet villages, and sparkling streams beside the road. We reached Ganderbal at around 8:40 am.

From Ganderbal onwards, the atmosphere began to change. The road towards Sonamarg was full of movement because of the annual Amarnath Yatra. Pilgrim buses, private vehicles, security convoys, and ambulances moved steadily along the highway. Thousands of devotees could be seen walking with faith and determination, some travelling towards the holy cave and others returning after completing their pilgrimage. Despite such heavy movement, the traffic management was remarkable, and we never experienced any real difficulty during the drive. Watching so many people travel with such devotion added an emotional layer to our own journey.

We paused for about half an hour at Kangan, where the children wanted juice and snacks, so we bought a few essentials before continuing. Soon the mountains grew taller and the air turned cooler as we approached the newly built Z -Morh Tunnel, which begins near Gagangir and emerges close to Sonamarg. Modern lighting and smooth roads made the crossing comfortable, and it took us nearly ten minutes to pass through. Emerging on the other side felt almost magical, as the valley of Sonamarg welcomed us with golden meadows, sparkling streams, and snow covered peaks.

The name Sonamarg means Meadow of Gold, and standing there, it was easy to understand why. We stayed for nearly half an hour, taking photographs and simply admiring the majestic surroundings, letting the children run about while the adults quietly took it all in. Sometimes the most beautiful moments are those when you stop doing anything and simply allow nature to speak.

On the way we saw Baltal, the famous base camp for pilgrims travelling to the Amarnath Cave. Hundreds of colourful tents covered the valley, where volunteers served food while medical teams assisted the pilgrims resting before or after their sacred trek.

Now we began one of the most demanding parts of our journey, the mighty Zoji La Pass. Although the highway has improved over the years, several stretches remain narrow, steep, and challenging, with sharp bends and loose rocks reminding every driver to stay alert. We drove slowly and carefully, and every turn revealed deep valleys on one side and towering mountains on the other. The road tested our patience, but the scenery made every moment worthwhile.

Having crossed the pass safely, we reached Zero Point, where towering mountains stood silently around us and patches of snow still rested on the higher slopes even in July. The cool breeze carried a refreshing chill that instantly revived our energy. From there we continued towards Gumri, a place of vast open plains ringed by snow covered peaks and glaciers whose melt water flowed down in streams that looked like ribbons of milk. We rested there for a while, enjoying hot tea, and were pleasantly surprised that the nearby army base camp had kept its toilets and drinking water open for travellers, a small but thoughtful gesture of hospitality in such a remote place.

One of the most memorable parts of our journey was that we had brought our own cooking equipment. Instead of relying entirely on restaurants, we stopped at Gumri, surrounded by bare rocky mountains without a single tree, and prepared hot tea and freshly cooked Maggi on our portable stove. Sitting together on folding chairs, laughing, sharing stories, and enjoying a simple meal in the middle of such raw and untouched scenery reminded us that happiness often comes from the simplest experiences.

As we continued towards Drass, the landscape changed again. Trees disappeared almost entirely, and the mountains rose dramatically against the clear blue sky. It felt surprisingly cold despite it being July, and it was easy to imagine why this region becomes one of the coldest inhabited places in the world during winter.

“The greatest journeys are not measured by the miles we travel but by the memories we gather, the hearts we touch, and the stories we carry home”

At Drass, often called the Gateway to Ladakh, we visited the Kargil War Memorial. Walking through it was a deeply emotional experience. Reading the names and photographs of the brave soldiers who sacrificed their lives during the 1999 Kargil War, and watching the national flag flutter against the backdrop of rugged mountains, filled our hearts with gratitude and pride. We could also see the distant Tiger Hill, one of the most significant battle sites of the conflict, and for a while every member of our family stood in silence, reflecting on the courage of those who fought there.

As evening approached, we resumed our drive and finally entered Kargil town around 7 pm. After searching briefly, we found comfortable rooms at a very reasonable price, proving that Kargil remains a budget friendly destination for families. We shared a warm dinner, exchanged stories from the day, and fell asleep looking forward to the next morning.

On 16 July, we woke up early, enjoyed a cup of tea, and set out towards the historic village of Hunderman, a few kilometers from Kargil town. The narrow winding road demanded patient driving, but every turn rewarded us with breathtaking views. Hunderman remained under Pakistani control until the 1971 Indo Pakistan War, after which it came under Indian administration. Walking among its old stone houses and abandoned structures felt like stepping into another era, with valleys stretching towards the Line of Control visible in the distance.

As we began our return journey, one thought stayed with all of us. This had not simply been a family vacation. It was a journey through changing landscapes, living history, quiet hospitality, and moments that drew our family closer together. Our vehicle carried more than luggage on the way back. It carried stories, photographs, laughter, and memories that will remain with us for years. Some journeys end when the road finishes, but others continue forever in the heart, and our journey from Baramulla to Kargil belongs to that second kind.

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